Some thoughts on risotto – and the odd mushroom!

Risotto is one of the most abused dishes in Italian cooking. We use the wrong rice, we bake it rather than cook on the top, we boil it to death and – the worst crime of all – we shove cream or creamy sauces in with the rice.

The secret of good risotto is in the stock. And in the patience to make that stock do its job – soaking into the rice, bringing out the stickiness and creaminess from the grains to make a smooth, filling and flavoursome dish. The meat, vegetables – or even mushrooms – are the added flourish to the main event.

To make a risotto with mushrooms, we start with a mushroom stock:

Dried porcini mushrooms (a small handful)
Chopped shallots (just a couple)
Herbs – whatever you’ve got: parsley, thyme, sage…
Dash of Worcester sauce (soy sauce for veggies)
Salt & pepper

Shove all this in two litres of water and boil for about 15-20 minutes – that’s your stock done – keep it simmering. Now for the cooking bit!

Take a good heavy based saucepan and heat about two tablespoons of olive oil (don’t use the posh stuff – the ordinary late season oil is fine).
Chop a shallot & a clove of garlic and fry with some allspice berries or juniper berries (the soffrito).
Add about 4oz of Arborio rice and mix until the rice is covered with the oil.
Soften with a half glass of marsala (use white wine for chicken risotto).

Now the boring bit! You add the stock one ladleful at a time – keep stirring and letting the stock soak into the rice. When it begins to stick add another ladle of stock and repeat. This takes about 20-25 minutes until the rice is al dente – cooked but retaining some bite, not sloppy (it’s not a rice pudding we’re making).

While you’re cooking the rice prepare the mushrooms – they’re best fresh, roughly chopped and salted before cooking. Heat up a heavy skillet or similar with some oil. Add the mushrooms to the hot oil and fry for a minute or two then remove from the heat and cover. The mushrooms will continue to cook without going slimy.

When the rice is all but cooked add the mushrooms and another small dash of marsala – serve into a warm dish and shave some parmesan onto the top. Serve with a big, bold bottle (or three) of red wine.