Friday Fungus: Thoughts on risotto

I've been watching how risotto is presented in trendy restaurants. And I'm a little concerned. Not only is the risotto presented in a moulded form - which means it's overcooked - but there is no indication that it's cooked fresh. It's no surprise it stands up all pretty like - it's has hung around the kitchen for some while!

Good risotto - like all the best peasant cooking - requires patience and good ingredients. The finished dish should be liquid enough to move in the bowl - just beyond pourable and certainly not mouldable! And - assuming you've a good stock ready - it takes 20-25 minutes to cook risotto. There isn't any getting round this and moreover the cooking is laborious - bit of liquid, stir until absorbed, bit more liquid, stir again, carry on until the rice is cooked. You can't do this in the oven, you can't use a slow cookers, or a pressure cooker. Just a good saucepan over the heat, good stock, a glass of white wine and whatever else you want to add.

Mushroom stock

I tend to cheat a little with mushroom stock - an OK liquid can be made by soaking some dried porcini in salted boiling water. But for a really good mushroom stock try this:

8oz field mushrooms (roughly chopped)
2oz dried porcini
Celery - 4 or 5 sticks roughly chopped
Onion - medium sized, chopped
Assorted herbs - sage, thyme, parsley are good
Ground black pepper
1 tblspn olive oil
Salt
Glass of white wine
2lt water

Heat a heavy bottomed pan, add and heat the oil. Add all the dry ingredients, cover and allow to sweat for a couple of minutes. Add the wine, cover again and cook for 2-3 minutes - be careful that noting catches. Pour over the water, bring to the boil then simmer for about an hour. Stock done!

Then make the risotto and add fantastic fresh mushrooms, chicken, peas more herbs - whatever you fancy!

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